It’s Not Me, It’s You or Why I Ask My Sommelier For Ice Cubes

Each time I have done what the title suggests I’ve done, I get an interesting, if very subtle, look from the somm taking care of my table that evening. It’s a combination of befuddlement and annoyance with a touch of disdain. The reason it’s not more obvious is because, after all, the customer is always right, right? Well, honestly, I’ve never bought into that service-industry truism, despite being a person being served.

If I can speak—or write!—my truth, there are few things more disappointing to me than being served a white wine that is too warm (the corollary is a red coming out too cold, although that situation doesn’t warrant corrective measures simply because the wine will come up suitably in temperature in a matter of minutes) or worse, a sparkler that isn’t cool enough.

And this happens a lot more than you would think. And it’s not limited to less-fancy restaurants. I’ve had whites that weren’t in the acceptable temperature range in all sorts of places and not just in New York City where I live but in London, Paris, Lisbon, really just about anywhere I’ve been. Not always, of course, but often enough that I’d like to officially go on record to say to all of the restaurants out there that aren’t fanatical about acceptable serving temperature ranges, get your shit together already.

If You’re Charging Premium Prices, Get It Right

It’s not like wine is getting cheaper these days. Regular inflationary pricing pressure has only been pushed up by tariffs and the costs of distribution. So, if I’m paying $25 for a glass of Champagne, it better be chilled. If not, I’m calling you out by saying that it’s too warm, so please get me some ice.

But the sommelier or server knows that whites show best when they are a bit warmer than glass-frosting cool. Yes, that’s true. But how long will that “ideal” temperature hold? Two minutes, three, maybe five? If that’s the case, then that “ideal” serving temp simply isn’t.

Why Temperature Actually Matters

The reason I’m very adamant about my whites being cool is that whites simply trumpet any flaws they have if they are too warm. That additional percentage of new oak treatment? Splinters in my mouth. Slightly elevated alcohol? Singeing my nose hairs. That $12 Vinho Verde that’s a few degrees off? A mouthful of nothing. It’s also true that a white wine that is served cold will not show it’s optimum aromatic and flavor profiles. But, again, a few minutes in the glass will solve that problem.

The other thing for me is that I value coldness in just about everything I drink, from sparkling water to wine. Not reds, of course, unless the red is Beaujolais or Lambrusco, both of which should be served chilled but not cold. What for some is just too cold is just about right for me. And I don’t think I’m an extremist. While I don’t think most wine drinkers really think about it, I can tell you that every time I’ve brought it up because the serving temp of a white at a party or at a restaurant wasn’t in the right range, I invariably get a 100% buy in by everyone else so affected. It’s almost like many wine drinkers are too shy or embarrassed or just think they aren’t entitled to better to bring it up themselves.

Ice Buckets Done Wrong

And don’t get me started on ice buckets. They are only as good as those who are responsible for making the water in those buckets cold. Usually, the bucket has a decent amount of ice in it but not enough—or any—water. Air is a very inefficient conductor. But water is excellent. So, when you put in a good amount of water in that bucket along with ice, you get what is needed to keep that bottle safely nestled in chilliness. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve dumped my ice water in the ice bucket in an attempt to drop the temp a handful of degrees. And I usually get the same look by the somm if I’m caught doing the deed. I don’t care. Do your job so I don’t have to!

Those “Wine Chillers”? They Don’t Work

Oh, and a last word on the other “chillers” many restaurants use. They don’t work. Full stop. It doesn’t matter what alloy they are made with or how lovely that ceramic thing is to look at. Even if they come to the table fresh out of the freezer, they simply can’t hold the bottle’s temperature steady because, again, air is a horrible conductor. Whenever I see my server bringing my white to the table for presentation and opening in one of these, I sigh.

And order a glass of ice!