Sautéing is probably the hardest task to master when cooking. A lot of elements need to be taken into consideration in order to neither overcook, nor undercook whatever is in the pan. It’s often thought of as a more elegant way of saying “frying,” although I usually think of frying as using more fat during its process than sautéing, which typically uses a tablespoon or two of fat. With proteins, the purpose is to sear the outside, to caramelize it, to seal it with a nutty, brown crust that will keep the tasty juices inside until the job is finished. It is used to apply heat to proteins and other ingredients when other techniques are not appropriate, as well as when small portions are being cooked quickly.

It all starts with choosing the right size of sauté pan or skillet. Size matters. The size of the pan must suit the number of servings or ingredients being cooked. Overcrowding the pan is one of the biggest mistakes that are made by home cooks, which will result in a huge drop in temperature in the pan that will, in turn, result in more of a steamed ingredient than a crusted one. There are endless choices for pans, but I think it’s a good idea to have a stainless steel one as well as a non-stick one. They will serve different purposes. You’re more likely to use the non-stick for fish and other delicate ingredients. A stainless or cast iron skillet will give a better seal and crust, however. There are many mentions of cast iron in this book, and while old fashioned, they belong in any serious kitchen. They take longer to get to temperature but they hold that heat better and more evenly than any other stovetop cooking vessel. They do work better on gas burners than induction stoves, however, so they may not be suitable for all. They can also take being practically put in a blast furnace for those proteins you really want to expose to high heat at the end of cooking.

For your stainless steel pan, find one with a heavy bottom. They just feel firmer and more controllable. They also hold heat better than more flimsy pans as well as the non-stick versions, which, as indicated above, are best for fish, and are also excellent for eggs.

Sautéing is generally done starting with either oil or butter, though I tend to mix the two because the oil “protects” the butter, which has a lower burn point than oil. Fresh herbs, garlic or citrus peel can be added to the fat to not only impart flavor to whatever is being moved around the pan but also lubrication, which helps keep your ingredient(s) moist. It’s important to tilt the pan and spoon over constantly.

The fat, whether it is oil, butter, bacon drippings or even shortening, functions to allow the ingredient(s) to be moved around the pan, if you are sautéing something like mushrooms, and to set the crust and brown proteins. The fat’s point isn’t to be absorbed by the food (unless you are working with a breaded ingredients), it’s to keep the ingredient(s) from sticking (and set the crust as indicated above). What is most important is that the temperature at which you begin (and then maintain) the sauté must be high enough to get color into the protein without it steaming or simply giving up liquid (make sure your ingredient(s) are very dry before proceeding).

There are numerous instances in this book where you will be instructed that foods should not be touched, shaken or stirred immediately after being placed in the pan. They should be allowed to settle into their new environment. I dare to say that moving the food too early is done repeatedly by many home cooks. Eye where the ingredients need to be placed in the pan so that there is no crowding. Do not flip until you have achieved a brown crust on the down side.

Stir frys are a very different animal and have their own rules. None of which are relevant here. Deglazing is often the conclusion of the sauté process in order to create a sauce or a glaze, but is not warranted for all recipes.